How Climbers Reached the Summit of K2 in Winter for the First Time


Crew Nimsdai, made up of six climbers, was led by Purja, a former Nepalese soldier and British particular forces operator who — after retiring from the army — burst onto the climbing scene in 2019 when he climbed all 14 8,000-meter peaks in six months and 6 days, shaving greater than seven years off the world report.

Purja is Magar, not Sherpa, however he fashioned a group that included 5 Sherpa climbers. The group included Geljen Sherpa, who climbed a number of Himalayan peaks with Purja in 2019, and Mingma David Sherpa, best-known for rescuing 52 climbers from the slopes of Everest in a single season in 2016.

Mingma G, a Sherpa climber who had climbed Everest 5 occasions, K2 twice and who had climbed all of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks earlier than turning 30, led a separate group of Sherpa climbers.

Collectively they and a group of native Pakistani porters hauled 70 camp tents, six eating tents and 30 specifically designed high-altitude tents on a spectacular weeklong 60-mile trek by way of the snow to base camp at roughly 17,000 toes. In addition they packed hundreds of meters of rope, dozens of ice screws, rock pitons, supplemental oxygen and kerosene, 360 kilos of meat, and 400 kilos of chocolate, cookies and vitality bars.

It had been determined earlier than their arrival that every one the climbers at base camp would observe the usual Abruzzi route that winter. On Dec. 26, Purja and his group stuffed their packs with rope, tents, and 4 days of meals, and climbed the 40-degree slope to Camp I at 20,013 toes to start their first four-day rotation at excessive altitude, to acclimatize to the situations. The following day, they moved on to Camp II at 21,982 toes the place they pitched tents beneath rock ledges providing meager shelter within the howling wind.

On Dec. 28, Purja’s radio chirped. Crew Mingma G have been busy fixing strains to the mountainside that every one the groups might use throughout the winter season. They usually wanted assist in the event that they have been to complete operating strains all the best way to Camp III. 4 members of Crew Nimsdai have been too spent and descended to base camp, however Purja and Mingma Tenzi, pushed as much as 23,000 toes to assist. By the point everybody had returned to base camp on New Years Eve, Purja had frostbitten fingers, and two Nepali groups had joined forces.



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