In Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the Gifts of Simplicity

I assumed the three wines I selected all confirmed the promising aspect of the grape and place. They had been wonderful bottles made by producers working merely, with out artifice.

I’ve had the Cirelli a number of instances and have all the time loved it. Francesco and Michela Cirelli handle an natural farm that produces olive oil, greens, fruit and meats along with wine.

The wine was inky purple, with the sweet-bitter taste that I discover in lots of Italian reds. I liked the life and breezy freshness I sensed within the wine, and the intense, juicy, floral, mineral flavors. This bottle, a 2019, was the youngest of the three. It was calmly tannic at first, however actually opened up within the glass with publicity to air.

De Fermo can be a various property, managed by a married couple, Stefano Papetti Ceroni and Eloisa de Fermo, who farm biodynamically.

The wine, which I had not tried earlier than, was additionally juicy and recent, with earthy, mineral flavors. In contrast to the Cirelli, which was fermented in chrome steel (partly accounting for the brightness of its fruit), the De Fermo, a 2018, was fermented in concrete. It appeared each extra substantial and extra subdued, stonier and fewer exuberant. I preferred it very a lot, too.

Tiberio has change into one in every of my favourite producers. Whereas I’ve primarily had its whites and rosés, the montepulciano is great as nicely. Cristiana and Antonio Tiberio, sister and brother, are exacting of their farming and easy and scientific of their strategy.

The wine, a 2017, benefited from its further years of ageing, with tannins that had mellowed. But it was recent, vibrant and vigorous, with lingering flavors of flowers, minerals and sweet-bitter fruit. Just like the Cirelli, it had been fermented and aged in metal tanks, maybe accounting for that sense of immediacy.

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